Buildin’ Fence, Part 1
Not everyone who builds fence is a horseman, but every horseman should know a thing or two about fence.
In this 3-part article, we’ll discuss planning your property, choosing and constructing fence and outbuildings, and herd management within your new or existing equine facility.
There’s nothing quite like the first breath of air when you finally go home after being away for a while. For us, that moment comes just past the North Dakota state line, where the trees give way to open prairie. The air is colder, drier, and always fresher—a welcome contrast to some of the other places life has taken us. This fall, my wife and I made the 1,800-mile trek back home, taking some time off between blocks of training and a change of duty station. With the dogs loaded in the pickup, we headed north for two weeks. When life keeps you away, it’s hard to turn down the chance to go home and spend time with family.
One of my main goals for the trip was to work with our stallion, Dusty, who had spent the summer idle after covering mares. I was eager to see what he’d retained from training and finally spend some time back in the saddle, and we put in a few miles—some in the arena knocking our collective rust off, and some just covering outside ground. It reminded me how much I love the connection that comes with working a horse. There’s nothing quite like the hours spent refining cues and building that partnership. That said, time in the saddle is only part of horsemanship. Along with training and riding comes the less glamorous but necessary work: shoveling manure, hauling hay, breaking ice in troughs, or, in this case, building fence.
We arrived just in time to help my dad replace a half-mile stretch of fence around one of our pastures. The old barbed wire, worn down by years of prairie weather, needed to be replaced. We moved the fence line to allow the horses more grazing area among the tree rows—a hard, hot day’s work, but the kind that leaves you feeling accomplished and proud. That project got me thinking about the planning and maintenance that goes into an equine property or facility, and gave me the inspiration to share what we’ve learned. In the past, our family has sat down many times with napkins and pens or notebooks and Google Earth to brainstorm our projects, and we’ve been able to see many of those jump from the page into life through some planning and hard work. In these articles, I’ll discuss what we’ve learned about creating and managing spaces for horses: fencing types, areas like pastures and paddocks, essential outbuildings, and herd management techniques. I don't claim to know it all, and this is based on what experience we have; that doesn't include a bottomless checkbook and hired crews. As such, this guide is meant for anyone starting from scratch—or close to it—and I hope it helps before you pick up a post hole digger.
Part 1: Areas of Operations
Having horses around requires a place to keep them, but things quickly get more complex from there. Within your property, there are different areas you may have or wish to build as you expand, and this guide will define and go over some of them. Everyone’s situation is different and will require different setups, but some general areas to consider building up include pastures, corrals/paddocks, and arenas/round pens. In this first article, we’ll talk about what they are, what to use them for, how to plan for their placement, and any other considerations I can come up with!
1.1 Pastures
The pasture is what most people think of when it comes to keeping any kind of livestock; it’ll be a large, fenced in area that generally gives animals access to free grazing as well as ample space to move around. Depending on your property size, geographic location and number of horses, the size of a pasture can vary from an acre or three up to hundreds. Regardless of size, it’s important to provide horses an area to get outside and act like horses.
When planning where to place your pastures, I suggest starting by asking yourself three key questions:
Can you graze it?
Can you access it?
Is it the best use for this ground?
For the first question, we’re determining if the area inside your proposed fence could supply enough forage to the amount of horses you want to place there. If not, they will graze it down to dirt and you’ll effectively ruin that ground for a period of time. Does the plant life support equine grazing? Is it good forage, like fescue and clover, or is it full of weeds that lack nutrition—or worse, might be toxic to your horses? Poor-quality grazing areas may require significant improvement before they’re suitable for horses
Next, can you access it? If you’re on a smaller property, this is less of an issue, but think about if it makes sense to be taking horses to and from that area. You can also define access in a few ways; some just need to walk to it, while others would also be able to access it visually to keep tabs on horses. If you have a trailer and are willing to transport your horses, that could count as access as well, but these are all things to weigh and balance for your own situation.
Lastly, does it make sense? Consider whether this is the best use of that part of your property. For example, if you have 20 acres and plan to build a house, barn, or arena, these developments often require flat, open ground. Placing a pasture in such an area could limit future space, growth and options. Prioritize spaces that maximize usability for both current needs and your future plans.
Now that you’ve chosen a spot, you’ll need to fence it in. Most pastures are fenced with economical, lighter materials such as electric or poly fencing, especially for larger areas. The more spacious and feed-dense the pasture, the less likely horses are to challenge the fence. On our property, we like to use 3-strand electric fencing, combining wooden posts for structural strength and metal T-posts to maintain wire tension and proper height. When laying out pastures, aim to use simple shapes like rectangles to ease construction and maintenance, and try to align fencing with natural property lines or obstacles. As a rule, try to keep fence angles at 90 degrees or greater to prevent horses from crowding corners, which can lead to fence damage or injuries.
Gate placement is another critical aspect of pasture design. For some, walk-in sized gates around 4’ in width will be usable, but if you use or plan on acquiring machinery or vehicles to enter these areas for any reason (such as feeding hay in the winter or dragging to spread manure), you should opt for wider gates to accommodate those. Generally, 10’ would be wide enough for a standard pickup. Intentional gate placement can also simplify handling your horses and grazing your pastures rotationally. Ideally, gates should allow you to move horses between pastures or into corrals without catching them. For example, our property features two large, square pastures connected by two sets of gates. One pasture has an additional exterior gate leading to an open hayfield, while the other has a gate that connects it to our dry lot (a large corral). This setup lets us move horses easily between areas, rotate pastures, and manage the herd without needing to catch individual horses or move them across open, unfenced areas.
1.2 Corrals and Dry Lots
Once you’ve got your pastures set up, the next logical step is adding corrals, dry lots, or paddocks to your property. For simplicity, I’ll refer to corrals as smaller, more confined spaces, like runs attached to stalls, and paddocks or dry lots as larger areas with durable footing, designed for feeding, containing, or working horses. These areas are incredibly useful when you need to do more than just watch your horses grazing in the yard.
A corner view of our smaller dry lot. It utilizes continuous fence, has multiple gates at common access points, and a sloped dirt footing.
Smaller enclosures like these make it easier to catch horses, separate them into groups, feed hay or grain (especially in the winter), or rest your pastures from grazing. Dry lots are more suited to a small catch pasture role, or an area where a few horses can be kept indefinitely given feed and water. Corrals or pens are generally used to keep one or two horses in each section at a time, to sort animals easily, or to do work like giving vaccines or vet checks. Both of these spaces should be located near your main activity hub—whether that’s your barn, feed storage, or home—so you can keep a close eye on the horses and handle daily chores efficiently. For example, if you’re introducing a new horse to the herd, keeping them closer to where you are makes it easier to monitor herd behavior without having to stand outside all day.
Since corrals and dry lots see more traffic than pastures, footing and drainage can become critical. Sand, dirt, or fine gravel work well for these areas, but without proper grading or drainage, you’ll end up with mud pits that are hard on feet and potentially lead to a visit with the vet. If you’re building from scratch, you might consider laying down geotextile fabric or adding high-traffic pads in problem areas to keep the footing stable and minimize erosion, especially in wetter climates or during the winter thaw. For larger areas or smaller budgets, attempt to grade the area for drainage or at least mix in sandy soil to help moisture escape. Choosing or building larger areas will also give your horses more room to find their comfort zone on dryer ground. As many horse owners know, you can design your setup how you like, but horses will always choose the spots where they feel most comfortable.
When it comes to fencing, these smaller areas often need something sturdier than what you’d use in a pasture. For larger areas like dry lots, electric fencing can still work, but in tighter spaces like corrals, you’re better off with continuous panels or solid wood fencing. You can also utilize mesh fencing, like v-mesh or no-climb fence, to keep legs from getting caught in panels or rails. This can be done standalone or in conjunction with the other types of fencing. As always, keep fence angles at 90 degrees or greater to avoid bunching or crowding, and take advantage of natural or manmade windbreaks, like tree rows or hay bales, to provide extra protection for your horses during extreme weather. Again, gate placement can make or break the functionality of your setup. Walk-through gates should be utilized for your day-to-day tasks, but remember that you’ll also want larger gates as you would with pastures for equipment to feed of clean these areas. Place gates where they’re easy to access and avoid areas that tend to collect water or snowdrifts. These smaller enclosures are good spots to add shelters and windbreaks as well, especially if you live somewhere with tough winters or unpredictable weather. I’ll go into more detail on these in the subsequent articles.
When it comes to how many horses you can keep in these areas, space matters. According to university research from Minnesota and Kentucky, you’ll want at least 400 square feet per horse for smaller breeds or minimal turnout, but up to 1,500 square feet a head for larger horses or high-traffic areas, such as where you feed hay. For reference, that’s a range of 20’x’20 up to about 40’x40’ per horse. On our property, we have a main dry lot sized 100’x200’ using electric fence where we keep the main herd and feed up to 12-15 head. We also have a smaller lot sized about 40’x100’ using continuous fencing with wood posts where we’ll keep 4-5 head. Keeping these numbers in mind can help prevent crowding and minimize wear on the footing and fence. Lastly, plan these areas with growth in mind. Modular fencing or portable shelters can be a lifesaver if you need to expand or rearrange your setup in the future, and I would almost guarantee that expansion is something you’ll want to do down the line. A little planning now can save you a lot of headaches later.
1.3 Arenas and Round Pens
Last but not least, we get into some more fun areas of your property. I do place these last for a reason, though, as they are less for keeping your horses safely and securely on your property, and more for training and riding purposes. We have an arena and a round pen, and we have designed them such that we can use them for extra pens or turnouts, but that is not their main purpose and their design reflects that. I highlighted these two areas that are great assets to have as a horseman, so let’s discuss each.
A look at our arena shortly after construction. We utilized wooden posts, continuous fence and 4 different gates to fit our needs.
Arenas are exactly what you’d expect: large, fenced-in areas with a prepared surface of dirt or sand used for riding, training, competing, or showing. While specific disciplines may require different dimensions, the average size is around 100’x200’. Our arena, for example, is approximately 150’x250’, designed to mimic a rodeo or roping arena. Whether you’re aiming for a multi-purpose setup or something more specialized, your options are as flexible as your needs.
The type of fencing you choose depends on how you plan to use the arena. For lighter use, such as recreational riding or training, wooden fencing or lightweight panels supported by T-posts may be sufficient. For more demanding activities, like roping or using the arena as a turnout, sturdier options like continuous fencing or in-ground post kits are a better choice. A good fence isn’t just about containment—it also ensures safety for both horse and rider.
Footing is arguably the most important part of an arena, so don’t cut corners. Find an area with suitable dirt or haul in sand to create a surface that provides traction without being too hard or too deep. Proper drainage is critical for outdoor arenas; ensure the area is graded to shed water effectively. In our case, we were fortunate enough to have a level, well-drained area and maintain the dirt that was already there through grooming and dragging. If you live in a climate with frequent rain or snow (and have the budget), a covered or fully indoor arena is worth considering. An all-weather facility can dramatically extend your riding season, making it one of the most valuable investments for serious horse owners. At the end of the day, an arena is what you make it. Whether you’re practicing for competitions, starting colts, or just enjoying a safe space to ride, the right arena can be a key part of your facility.
Next is round pens, and I believe I saved the best for last with these. Round pens are one of the most useful tools you can have when working with young horses or starting fresh ones. Typically 30 to 50 feet in diameter, they’re small enough to keep a horse focused on you but big enough to allow them to move freely without feeling trapped. Whether you’re working on groundwork, introducing the saddle and bridle, or building up to that first ride, a round pen gives you the control and safety you need for those early steps.
Some round pens are built with portable panels, making them easy to set up, take down, or adjust in size if needed. For a more permanent option, solid fencing like wood or pipe works well, especially if you want something sturdy that can hold up to years of use. Ours is on the larger side at 50’, and built from solid wood with one walk-in gate and another larger gate directly across from it. No matter what material you choose, it needs to be tall enough (at least 5 feet) and strong enough to handle a young horse testing its limits. There’s nothing worse than a pen that looks good but won’t hold up to a fresh colt with a little too much energy.
Again, footing is critical in a round pen since it’s such a high-traffic area. Sand or a sand-clay mix is a solid choice, giving horses enough grip without being hard on their legs. Make sure it’s well-drained—nothing ruins a training session faster than standing water or slippery mud. If you’re in a wet climate, you might even consider adding a base layer to keep it usable year-round. Also consider adding gates large enough for small equipment to access the pen for periodic maintenance, like softening the footing or removing weeds.
Round pens work best when placed near your barn or arena so they’re easy to access. They’re not meant for turnout or high-energy riding, but for lunging, groundwork, and starting colts, there’s nothing better. A good round pen doesn’t need to be fancy—it just needs to work, and when it does, you’ll wonder how you ever managed without one.
Conclusion
When it comes to building and planning facilities for your horses, pastures, corrals, arenas, and round pens form the foundation of a functional and well-thought-out operation. Each plays a critical role in meeting your horses’ needs—providing space to graze, train, and grow while keeping them safe and manageable. The details of how you design and build these spaces will depend on your property, goals, and budget, but the principles of good planning, proper materials, and adaptability remain the same.
In the next parts of this series, we’ll dive deeper into the other essential elements of horsemanship, including outbuildings, fencing specifics, and herd management strategies. In the planning stage, focus on creating spaces that work for both you and your horses—because the time you spend planning now will save you some time and frustration later.
If you have any questions or comments, reach out! Otherwise, we’ll catch you next time.
